29 Mai Der Glasperlenspieler
Schon bei den alten Griechen galt die Kugel als Inbegriff absoluter Schönheit. Auch Axel Russmeyer macht sie zum Zentrum seines Schaffens.
von Susanne Filter / Fotos: Olff Appold
Aber wer ist dieser Mann, der uns zunächst sehr zurückhaltend gegenüber tritt? Er mag es gar nicht, im Rampenlicht zu stehen, denn seine Kreationen sollen zu uns sprechen und nicht er selbst. Doch unser Interesse an Axel Russmeyer und seiner Kunst ist ungebrochen. Vor unseren Augen öffnet er sein Säckchen aus grauem Filz und dann sehen wir sie, seine Schätze. Kugeln unterschiedlichster Größe, Materialität und Farbigkeit. Er erzählt ruhig und verhalten, doch mehr und mehr. Er zieht uns in seinen Bann, indem er neue, kugelige Schmuckwelten zeigt.
Axel Russmeyer war schon als kleiner Junge etwas anders, er bastelte der Familie zu Geburtstagen bezaubernde Schmuckstücke. Zunächst aus Glasperlen, denn es waren die kühle Qualität und der leise Klang der Perlen, wenn man diese durch die Finger rinnen ließ, die ihn faszinierten. „Ich denke, dass ich anfangs versucht habe, optisch das nachzuempfinden, was ich im Juwelierladen und in den Schaufenstern sah. Das Funkeln“.
Schon während seines Designstudiums verspürte er den inneren Drang, das Thema Schmuck und speziell die Kugel zu seinem ureigensten Thema zu machen. Das ist mittlerweile 25 bis 30 Jahre her. Seine Fingerfertigkeit war damals schon enorm und er verfeinerte sie durch eine Ausbildung zum Goldschmied. Er ist sich immer treu geblieben und über all die Jahre nicht von seinem Weg abgekommen.
Die Kugel hat die perfekte Form und dennoch findet sich in Russmeyers Kreationen eine unendliche Vielfalt an Interpretationen. Seine Technik, die er über die Jahrzehnte stets weiterentwickelt hat, ist sein persönliches Geheimnis und wird nie gezeigt, denn der Schaffensprozess ist etwas ganz Privates für den Hamburger Künstler. Niemand ist im Raum, niemand schaut zu, er genießt die Ruhe seiner Werkstatt, umgeben von einer Welt aus Glasperlen und Fäden.
Doch da ist noch ein ganz anderer ungewöhnlicher Aspekt. Er liebt seine Kundinnen und hat einen ganz besonderen Bezug zu jeder Trägerin. Fast möchte man meinen, dass die Frauen, die Russmeyers Schmuck mit Selbstbewusstsein tragen, Teil seines Kunstwerks werden. Egal ob Kunstobjekte, Skulpturen oder Ketten, alles ist tragbar und wirkt erst in der Inszenierung seiner Trägerin. Russmeyer ist überzeugt, dass seine Kundinnen die Hälfte ihrer Inszenierung selbst dem optischen Gemälde hinzufügen. Eine seiner Kundinnen aus New Yorks feinster Gesellschaft, betraut mit vielen Charity Events, erregte aufgrund ihrer perfekten Selbstinszenierung die Aufmerksamkeit Bill Cunninghams. Eine große weiße Kugelkette zierte ihren Hals zu einem sehr strengen grauen Outfit. „Es gibt oft eine Interaktion mit den Menschen, die etwas von mir besitzen. Manchmal gibt es ein Fitting wie in der Haute Couture“. Die erste Präsentation beinhaltet aber immer schon die fertige Idee.
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