26 Aug Orakel mit Schliff
Nichts ist für einen Kreativen und seine Arbeit so essenziell wie die Weiterentwicklung. Man denke nur an Marc Jacobs, der als junger Moderebell Anfang der 1990er Jahre mit seinen Grunge-Entwürfen für Furore sorgte und heute an der Spitze Louis Vuittons steht, einem der renommiertesten Modehäuser der Welt sein Gesicht gibt. Oder an Haider Ackermann, der lange bevor er zum Darling der Pariser Szene avancierte – Lagerfeld sprach von ihm gar als möglichen Nachfolger bei Chanel – sein Studium an der Königlichen Akademie der Schönen Künste zu Antwerpen nach drei Jahren kurzerhand abbrach.
Auch Sevan Bıçakçı hat einen weiten Weg hinter sich. Erzählt er von seiner Kindheit, so beschreibt er sich als hyperaktiv, nicht fähig, auch nur eine Minute den Lehrern lauschend still auf seinem Stuhl zu sitzen. Das verwundert sehr, ist er doch täglich auf höchste Konzentration und eine ruhige Hand angewiesen. Ist die Anfertigung von Schmuck ohnehin eine äußerst riskante Angelegenheit, bedeutet jeder Fehler im Bearbeiten der teuren Steine und fragilen Metallfassungen doch den Verlust eines kleinen Vermögens, so treibt Sevan Bıçakçı seine Fragilarbeit seit seiner ersten eigenen Kollektion 2002 auf die vergoldete Spitze. Zwar sehen seine Stücke auf den ersten Blick alles andere als zart und zerbrechlich aus, wirken in Größe und in sich geschlossener Form geradezu robust. Der Weg zur Erstellung der Preziosen aber ist gesäumt von aufwendigen Arbeitsschritten und mühsamen Methoden. So bedient sich der Istanbuler, der bereits mit zwölf Jahren sein erstes Praktikum in einer Juwelenschmiede absolvierte, prekären Prozeduren wie der Miniaturmalerei oder Kalligrafie auf kleinstem Raum, setzt winzige Mosaike zusammen oder widmet sich der feinsten Glasbläserei.
Besonders heikel sind vor allem Bıçakçıs Schnitzereien, die er an kostbarsten Edelsteinen vornimmt. So kerbt und ritzt er Hohlräume in edle Steine, die Platz schaffen für symbolhaltige Motive wie kleine Schwäne, filigrane Blumengebilde oder Miniaturnachbauten berühmter Gebäude Istanbuls, seiner Stadt, die ihm stets die größte Inspiration beschert. Besonders die Kombination der vielen unterschiedlichen Verfahren ist ein schwieriges Unterfangen, jede falsch gezogene Linie oder jedes fehlerhaft gesetztes Mosaik zerstört das gesamte Schmuckstück, wenn ein zu tiefer Schnitzer den Edelstein nicht ohnehin schon gebrochen hat. So kann es durchaus vorkommen, dass zur Herstellung einer perfekten Kostbarkeit gleich acht Juwelen zerstört werden, erklärt Sevan Bıçakçı die unfassbaren Preise seiner Schmuckstücke, die stets im fünfstelligen Bereich liegen. Die distinguierte Kundschaft für solch verschwenderische Pracht findet Bıçakçıs Kostbarkeiten in seinen Boutiquen in Istanbul und Dubai.
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